Didi Chailuri is a typical, unassuming Georgian village, one that grew along the slope of a rolling hill near Sagarejo, centered around a small church and stretching down into the valley and toward the ruins of a castle beside the highway leading to Kakheti.
But Didi Chailuri has a surprise – every year it hosts a pagan celebration of wild men dressed as monsters, who whoop, scream and dance their way along the streets, throwing mud, accepting gifts from the neighbors, and beating back the crowds as they make their way to a wrestling ring and community fairground for drinks and musical fun. This is Berikaoba, and we highly recommend you attend!
Berikaoba is a traditional public holiday that originated in pagan Georgia. Unfortunately, Georgian history books have very little information about the tradition, or precisely when it started, and some suppose it is over 2000 years old. Initially, it was a fertility ritual, and the Berika costumes incorporated hanging phallic forms. However, the theme, costumes, customs, and procession have changed over time, today being much more playful and family-friendly.
“In the modern day, Berikaoba is an agricultural holiday connected with and celebrating the arrival of spring. In Didi Chailuri, Berikaoba is held on the last day of the Cheesefare Week,” says Eka Chikadze-Veshapidze, a resident of Didi Chailuri, history teacher, and the main organizer of Berikaoba. She notes that, back in the day, it was celebrated all over the country, yet only around five villages keep the tradition today.
“The reason we keep Berikaoba alive in Didi Chailuri is probably our attachment to the Georgian identity. I’m a historian by profession, and I value the history and the path Georgians have taken to get where we are today. I want the next generation to walk firmly in the footsteps of their ancestors,” Eka explains, adding that she feels responsible for maintaining this non-material cultural heritage.
Visitors can expect to be treated to local wine, music, cheese, barbecued meat, nuts, grapes and a special local version of Kada. Guests can get involved in making and cooking the Kada, as well as making Churckhela (Georgian snickers), and stirring (and eating) the grape sauce Tatara.
A great day out for the whole family, you’ll want to get there early as the Berika begin their parade at the tiny village church at 11am. Bring clothes you don’t mind getting muddy, some water to drink, and some money to donate – the event is free, but your generous donations will help to keep the tradition alive!
To find out more about the event, check out our review of Berikaoba 2023 here: http://georgiatoday.ge/berikoaba-georgias-ancient-fertility-festival-still-going-strong/ See you there!
By Katie Ruth Davies
