I moved to Georgia from England in September 2009, the year after their short war with Russia. Every year, I reflect on my living in Georgia- the country not the US state (it needs qualifying every time). I am often asked if I like Georgia. Well, my answer is “Yes and no”. Everywhere I have lived (England, Wales, Australia, France and Georgia) has had positive and negative aspects. I’m sure there will be the inevitable few, who will repeat the tired old chestnut “if you don’t like, it go back to where you came from!“. On balance, I’d say I’m very happy here, and I have no plans to move. This is my own very personal viewpoint. I realize others will have different likes and dislikes, particularly with regards to the Khachapuri (cheese-bread)! I have also lived exclusively in the capital, Tbilisi, which I appreciate is very different to living in a Georgian village.
Light
I love the fantastic light. Lots of clear, sunny days make for good photos. Coming from England, where sunny days are rarer, this is a great blessing.
Mountains
The mountains are spectacular. Some are higher than any in the Alps (Mont Blanc is 4810m, Mount Shkhara in Svaneti is 5193m). As a draw-card, I think this is what would really attract tourists to Georgia.
Georgian Cuisine
Georgians rave about their cuisine. One list places Georgian Cuisine as 4th out of 48 European cuisines, ranked behind only Italy, France and Spain. Can I say I am not a fan of khachapuri, their signature dish, a cheese filled pastry? I find it too salty. I do like khinkali (dumplings) and churchkhela (nuts wrapped in solidified grape juice), though.
Georgian meals are important events, and most birthdays and holidays are marked with a feast or “supra”. Georgians are also proud of their wine, and claim to have been the nation which invented wine back in the mists of time, some 8000 years ago, a claim for which there is substantial archaeological support in the region.
The Georgian Language (დედა ენა)
The language is a real nightmare for me, using a unique alphabet, and having long words with tricky consonant clusters. I lived in France for six years and can get by reasonably well in French, but Georgian is a different story. Maybe it is just that my brain isn’t as malleable as it once was. This year, I made a resolution to read a book in Georgian. For this, I chose Dumbadze’s famous “Granny, Iliko, Illarion and I” (მე, ბებია, ილიკო და ილარიონი), but my progress is agonizingly slow.
Safety
Tbilisi feels like a safe city, I have had no troubles. Apparently it hasn’t always been so. In the 1990s, there was a lot of street crime. Walking around late at night in an English city on a Friday or Saturday night is far more intimidating than walking around Tbilisi at night.
Smoking
Smoking is very common here. It is cheap compared to Western Europe, and many smokers seem oblivious to those around them. It pains me to see people smoking around children.
Public Transport
The public transport, though cheap, can be very overcrowded. The newer buses are better, with air conditioning and less pollution. There are just two metro lines, which don’t serve all parts of the city.
Trash
One thing that saddens me is that despite the Georgians singing so much that they are proud of their country, so many of them litter with abandon.
Traffic
The traffic is scary at times, the drivers have little respect for pedestrians, and a disdain for lane markings. Also, drivers won’t necessarily stop just because you are on a pedestrian crossing. When asked by Georgians what I don’t like, I usually say “the traffic!” and they nod in agreement. Another gripe I have with the traffic is seeing far too many drivers using their mobile phones with seeming impunity.
Religion
Religion is important here. Despite the Bolsheviks’ attempt to stamp out religion in the 20th century, there are today many new churches, and most Georgians identify themselves as Orthodox Christians. I have been baptized into the Orthodox Church, but I find their intolerance of other denominations rather un-Christian, and so I feel I may be losing my religion.
So, there you have it, my personal pros and cons of living in Georgia. I’ve been here over 14 years now, and I think, on balance, the positive aspects of living here far outweigh the negative.
Blog by Jim Holroyd
