The Shdugra Waterfall, past the top of Mazeri (Becho village’s topmost hamlet) has been there since time immemorial. To reach it, you hike on gently undulating forest paths, and through a Georgian border guards’ camp, where they’ll ask you how far you intend to go. To the bottom of the falls, no problem.
Climbing up to their source glacier, however, requires presenting an ID document for recording. This is because you’ll come much closer to the Russian border, and no one wants any crossing incidents.
A new stop on the way to the falls, though, is the growing complex called Hikers Inn, the fulfilled vision of one Simon Argvleniani, who has also managed nearby Grand Hotel Ushba for quite a few years. Following signposts all the way from the main road’s turn into Becho proper, crossing the river on a new bridge, you find the place right on the other side. It’s almost entirely made of wood.
Simon had the idea for this facility about nine years ago. It’s on common land, and the village authorities allowed him to proceed, using his own funds. Even the electricity for it now comes from 3km of wires he paid to have extended, a huge labor in itself. Year by year, the Inn complex has grown into its current form.
There are indoor and outdoor eating facilities; a wood-fired sauna, river-fed ice-cold pool, and two trout ponds fed from this. Rustic cabins; horse rentals; guides; shop; deck chairs; and more. When my wife and I visited on an afternoon off, the place was filled with tourists from all over the world, most of them stopping there on their way to or from the falls. Business is booming. This July, at Mestia’s Svanetoba festival of all things local, Simon walked away with the top award for a meat dish, whose prize was a handsome colored felt picture of two Svan men dancing.
He showed us around as I filmed him talking to Lali for a Facebook advertisement about the whole project. He is very good at branding, with the Inn’s logo all over the place. He produces many different varieties of his own flavored vodkas, and fish caught by rod or net minutes’ prior are prepared (along with the usual Svan specialties like kubdari meat pies) in a couple of ways.
We tried both the wonderful pan-fried trout and Simon’s own version. This is a whole gutted fish encased in bread dough and baked, just like kubdari is, but shaped like the fish. Ingenious and delicious. A swallow of local barberry vodka to wash it down, plus a bottle to take with us as a gift. Our meal was free too, as he recognizes the value of our promotion of his business.
It has taken years of growth, but Hikers Inn is by far the most popular place in all of Becho. Deservedly so. There is nothing like it elsewhere. Its location means that there is no nearby competition, and Simon has worked hard to make it what it is (with more planned). Even making the several km of road to it from the top end of Mazeri drivable was a major undertaking. But he has done what is necessary to attract business and make his clients at home, even hiring kitchen and restaurant staff all the way from Zugdidi. The surrounding mountains give a magnificent backdrop to this hewed-out masterpiece, with the waterfall visible several km away should you desire to trek to it. Onward, upward, Simon!
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Hikers Inn
Simon Argvliani
Tel. +995 599 424778
Blog by Tony Hanmer
Tony Hanmer has lived in Georgia since 1999, in Svaneti since 2007, and been a weekly writer and photographer for GT since early 2011. He runs the “Svaneti Renaissance” Facebook group, now with over 2000 members, at www.facebook.com/groups/SvanetiRenaissance/
He and his wife also run their own guest house in Etseri: www.facebook.com/hanmer.house.svaneti
