Back in 2011, I boldly predicted that Georgia’s tourism future lay not in impersonal hotels but in cozy guesthouses. My travels confirmed this belief. The warm, family-style hospitality so deeply ingrained in Georgian culture offers tourists unforgettable experiences.
Bigger hotels, on the other hand, can feel impersonal and less authentic. Unless the owner is personally involved or there is a decent and caring general manager, ensuring high standards can be challenging.
Given the affordable rates and a welcoming atmosphere, guests at family-run hotels and guesthouses are often more tolerant of minor service imperfections. That’s why I’ve always opted for guesthouses or smaller family hotels during my Georgian adventures.
This summer, my travels across Georgia reaffirmed my belief that the heart of Georgian hospitality lies within its families. Whether it’s a cozy guesthouse in a small village or a homestay in a bustling city, staying with locals offers a unique and unforgettable experience.
A Stay in Ghvirishi
Let’s take, for example, the enchanting village of Ghvirishi, nestled in one of Lechkhumi’s gorges near a monumental waterfall. In this village, we spent two unforgettable days as guests of Manona, a schoolteacher who also runs a charming little guesthouse situated in an apple orchard amidst mountains and vineyards.
Along with just a few helpers, the modest and soft-spoken hostess prepares homemade breakfasts, lunches, and dinners for her guests using products from her own farm. She will treat you to crispy chicken, tender cheese, fragrant honey, exotic jams, her own wines and chacha, as well as the world’s most incredible tkemali sauce. At Manona’s, you can order a full tasting of local products, including wine and chacha, tklapi, dried fruits, all enjoyed in a warm and friendly atmosphere in the spacious family marani (wine cellar).
Manona carefully preserves the memory of her ancestors, offering an extensive collection of family documents dating back to the mid-19th century. These include diplomas, tax declarations, correspondence with various authorities, and more. On the guesthouse grounds, there is also a small museum dedicated to wheat, where visitors learn that Ghvirishi is the birthplace of five endemic varieties of this cereal crop! Children in particular will find it interesting to see first-hand where bread comes from, and how and with what tools villagers process wheat.
Ghvirishi impressed us with its tranquility, seclusion, and beauty – both natural and human. We didn’t want to leave, well, except to return again to visit Manona in her fairytale village!
Hospitable Lentekhi
When we were traveling through Lechkhumi, we had a wonderful four-legged companion with us, a Portuguese Water Dog. After unsuccessfully searching for accommodation in Tsageri, where finding a place to stay with a dog is impossible, we were incredibly relieved to find ourselves in Lentekhi, the capital of Lower Svaneti.
Lower Svaneti is a hidden gem in Georgia. If you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle and seek a more authentic experience, this is the place for you. This region, straight out of a fairytale, offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the warm hospitality of the Caucasus.
The “Svaneti” guesthouse became our salvation. The hosts, Zakro and Giuli, turned out to be the most hospitable people in Lentekhi, as they without any problems let us into their home with our four-legged companion. True, for the duration of our visit, their cats were forced to be placed under “house arrest.”
Zakro and Giuli’s family has been running a guesthouse for eight years. The second floor of their house is fully equipped as a guesthouse. They showed us our room, small but with all amenities, and even a mini-refrigerator and private bathroom. There were also other rooms in the corridor – for every taste and budget, as well as two shared bathrooms. Everything in the house sparkled with cleanliness and order.
On the spacious terrace (“aivani” in Georgian), there is enough space for various social activities even on a rainy day: hammocks hang, there is a sofa, armchairs, and beds for less demanding tourists who are ready to sleep in the fresh air. Although we slept in a room and not on this magnificent balcony, our sleep was heroic! As our host explained, in the evening, the cool mountain air descends from the mountains, crosses the river flowing by the house, and goes straight to our windows. That’s Morpheus’ secret in Lentekhi!
The most remarkable thing for us was the hospitality and openness of the hosts. Zakro and Giuli radiated warmth and kindness. Immediately, as if we were family, they fed us “whatever God had sent.” And on that day, good God sent a hearty chikhirtma soup, a salad of tomatoes and cucumbers, crispy apples from their own garden, and fragrant coffee with cookies. Now you know where we got the strength to conquer one of the local peaks!
Over dinner, the conversation flowed easily and naturally. From our hosts, we learned that Giuli is a schoolteacher. This is why she has such a beautiful and expressive speech and a melodic voice. You can safely come to Giuli for Georgian lessons! Zakro, a former police colonel, told us with shining eyes about his adventures in the mountains. A trophy – a bear skin hanging on the wall – served as a reminder of one of his brightest adventures. In addition, he proudly told us about his daily workouts on the horizontal bar and runs in the mountains. A real colonel: in full combat readiness!
In the evening, we had dinner at one of the local restaurants located in the forest on the riverbank. There we tasted the main dish of Svan cuisine: kubdari meat pie!
In the morning, the hostess treated us to an omelette with spicy tkemali and ajapsandali, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, as well as an original dish that Giuli called “chiji-pyzhi” (scrambled eggs with vegetables and rice).
This warm, hospitable home touched our hearts so much that on our way back from Upper Svaneti, we could not resist the temptation to stay there for another night. As a gift, we were once again met by a deep and peaceful sleep, which seems to be one of the local attractions.
Racha: An Oasis of Calm
Tucked away in the mountainous region of Racha, there are three unexpected villages: Glola, Chiora, and Gebi. Far removed from the fertile valleys and vineyards that characterize much of Racha, these villages are nestled high in the mountains. Except for the most adventurous travelers, they remain relatively undiscovered. The wild, untamed nature and lack of infrastructure can be daunting to some. However, a good road now leads to these villages, making them more accessible.
Of all these places, Chiora holds a special place in my heart. Nestled on a cozy mountain slope just after crossing the last major bridge over the Rioni River, Chiora is a bright, welcoming, and picturesque village. It so happens that my friend’s family hails from this village, though none of her relatives live there anymore.
A New Sustainable Retreat in Chiora village
Recently, a family-run eco-friendly mini-hotel has opened its doors in Chiora, seamlessly blending into the village’s tranquil ambiance. Catering to a maximum of 26 guests, the hotel provides personalized service from its eight warm and attentive staff.
The hotel’s expansive grounds offer a serene escape into nature. Lush lawns, blooming gardens, and hammocks shaded by ancient trees create a peaceful atmosphere. Every room boasts panoramic views of the majestic Racha mountains, often shrouded in mist or snow.
Beyond its scenic beauty and comfortable accommodations, this area offers a variety of activities. Guests can embark on hiking adventures, explore the surrounding wilderness, or simply unwind with a book on the terrace. Evenings are filled with delicious local cuisine at the on-site restaurant or social gatherings under the covered outdoor ground.
The rooms are spacious, clean, and modern, with all interiors crafted entirely from wood. One of the staff members proudly shared that her husband had personally crafted all the wooden elements in the hotel.
The hotel’s warm and inviting atmosphere, created with love and care by its staff, truly left us captivated. We were truly impressed by the warm welcome and exceptional service.
Our recent stay in Chiora was the ideal way to cap off a fantastic summer. It seems that the country’s hospitality has made remarkable strides, and is well able to offer travellers some really unforgettable experiences.
By Tatjana Montik
