My wife and I took another couple around the old city of Tbilisi recently. They’re old friends of ours (he is English, she Filipina) and first-time visitors to Georgia. We exited the metro at Liberty Square and wandered along and around Leselidze Street.
“You probably do this with visitors a lot,” he mused. “Ever get tired of it?”
“Absolutely not,” I said. “I always find new things to see; it never gets old.”
This time, my long lens was noticing the reflections of architectural details in windows, with partial glimpses into the interior at the same time: double or multiple worlds in single frames.
Then we stumbled across one of the carpet shops, which I’ve been to, and to my mild surprise my wife, the Saver, was soon asking to see some samples. I, the Spender, happily joined in. One after the other was unrolled onto the floor for us, each with its unique provenance and tale, all part of the ritual. Many are bought second hand from house collections across the whole region and from beyond. “Afghanistan… Daghestani prayer rug… kilims… wool… Armenian… Guba… ReWoven, from Marneuli…” and, finally, the toppers, fantastic large knotted Persian silk masterpieces. It looked like we were going to buy something!
After some hemming and hawing, and yes, some haggling too (as is proper form), we came away with a magnificent shimmering multicolor Persian piece, and a Guba one in wool of about 80 years’ age, the latter with a plethora of stylized human and animal figures all over it. Hers and his, so to speak. They gave us a certificate for the Guba piece; advised us on care and cleaning; and told us they could have them delivered to our flat on the morrow. With both purses and more importantly hearts rather lightened, we walked on.
Onto the Metekhi bridge, with its broken barrier, now host apparently to THREE car drive-offs into the Mtkvari. (Un)fortunately we didn’t get to see Number 4 during our brief stop; though the odds of this had improved dramatically in the last 10 days or so. I did mention the reason for the somewhat strangely placed little chapel half built into the cliff edge, unnecessary with the main old Metekhi church right above it… until you discover that down there, where the newer church is, up to 100,000 local citizens were beheaded, one at a time or more, for refusing to recant Orthodoxy and turn to Islam, in the late 8th century.
The weather now (as I write this) is perfect in the city: not cold at all; I was in short sleeves for the first time this year. Buds and blossoms are emerging, and all the tkemali (sour plum) trees are in full white floral glory, with pink cherry blossoms soon to follow. As long as we don’t get a late frost to kill all hopes of actual fruit! All too soon Tbilisi (named for “warmth”) will turn to “Tskhelisi” (my newly minted word for “a hot place”). It’ll go from green to browns and yellows in the blazing heat of summer, and we will have fled to our cool Svaneti mountains. But for now, rain is promised, a dip back to cooler temperatures, and very pleasant walks await. Get them while you can. 40 degrees is easily possible here in July and August.
We trudged uphill towards Avlabari metro, seeking and eventually finding the Kopala Hotel, which hosts the Terrace Restaurant on its 3rd floor, giving unparalleled views of the whole Old Town, and also feeding you rather well in grand Georgian style. The sight changed from late afternoon to lit-up evening, and dazzled as it did so. Our friends were impressed by both view and repast, their first taste of Georgian cuisine. We were glad to show it all off; indeed, I always enjoy the city center and making introductions. Now’s the time.
Ever hear of a carpet displayed flat on the CEILING? Well, why not? It won’t take up wall space that way; and you could never put it on the floor: it’s much too important for that. She didn’t bat an eyelid when I suggested it, so I might just get away with this unorthodox approach. Pictures will follow if I succeed.
Blog by Tony Hanmer
Tony Hanmer has lived in Georgia since 1999, in Svaneti since 2007, and been a weekly writer and photographer for GT since early 2011. He runs the “Svaneti Renaissance” Facebook group, now with over 2000 members, at www.facebook.com/groups/SvanetiRenaissance/
He and his wife also run their own guest house in Etseri: www.facebook.com/hanmer.house.svaneti
