Berlin has never been known for refined elegance. Its street style often ventures beyond ugly into deliberately anti-fashion territory, with a local community that sees little to no value in dressing up. Yet, twice a year, the city transforms into an unexpected stage for global fashion players and underground tastemakers alike.
The Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 26 once again showcased its signature duality: edgy, unconventional, subculture-driven creativity intertwined with serious, internationally recognized design. From streetwear rebels to established Berlin-based labels catering to customers far beyond Germany’s borders, the official calendar presented a curated celebration of innovation and grit.
A highlight this season was the PLATTE NEXT GEN Pop-up, a true hub for experimentation in garment construction and aesthetic storytelling. Situated in the iconic DDR-era architecture synonymous with uniformity, monotony, and mass accommodation – PLATTE turned into a true platform for diversity in fashion offering access to all. Today, it stands as a vibrant hub for diversity in fashion, welcoming those who seek fresh impulses in local design, craft, and beauty. The pop-up catered to a wide spectrum of fashion lovers, from Gen Z minimalists to best agers, all in search of something new, daring, and authentic. Curated by an international jury, Steigleder, DEAR DIARY, J.A.I.W, Carolin Dieler, and Autel among others presented their collections. Both clothing and jewelry were on display. The visitors were welcome to injoy the music by trendy DJs and most importantly see the new collections and buy the outfits on the spot.
This season Georgian designer David Koma’s new collection was a special highlight of the Berlin Fashion Week. His Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, “I Love David,” is a witty yet profound exploration of ego, identity, and masculinity. Drawing inspiration from a playful triad of Davids – cultural icon David Beckham, Michelangelo’s sculptural masterpiece David, and Koma himself – the collection examines how persona and self-reflection shape modern manhood. Beckham’s early-2000s style is reinterpreted through light-rinse distressed denim, aged brown leather trench coats, and the tongue-in-cheek “I LOVE DAVID” appliqué T-shirt referencing his famous “I KISS FOOTBALL” jersey. Michelangelo’s David comes alive in graphic prints and lace crochet souvenir aprons, while sculptural romanticism is translated into elegantly draped T-shirts. From his own signature wardrobe, Koma brings garter details on tailored trousers and denim, statement outerwear, and intricately hand-embroidered hibiscus brooches inspired by his travels.
While marking his brand’s 15th anniversary, “I Love David” is only his third menswear collection, refining the Koma man as a character of contrasts: bold yet sophisticated, ornate yet effortlessly wearable. Davit Komakhidze known as David Koma (stylized as DΛVID KOMΛ) is a Georgian fashion designer based in London, England. Koma established his eponymous luxury womenswear fashion brand in 2009 and has been showing his collections during London Fashion Week ever since. Internationally acclaimed celebrities often turn to the designer for red carpet looks, including Beyonce, Dua Lipa, Jennifer Lopez, Caea Delevinge, Blackpink and Adele to mention a few.
From July 2013 to December 2017, he worked as the creative director of Mugler. He is currently the creative director of Blumarine.
TELL THE TRUTH’s new collection “CULT” channelled ecstatic, rebellious energy into Berlin’s fashion scene, presented within a historically charged WWII bunker in the city’s West, now refunctioned as an event space. Building upon the buzz of its last London showcase, the brand leaned fully into its cult status with unisex, layered silhouettes and its signature “three-layer cake” styling that flattered all bodies equally.
Sustainability remained at the forefront with eco-conscious materials such as vegan leather, washed nylons, and oil-dyed cottons that absorbed light and reflected mood with subversive depth. A foundation of black anchored the palette, punctuated by red and grey tones. Standout looks included the “Midnight Set,” a full vegan leather ensemble with rich movement, the sharply tailored “Red Velvet Jacket,” and the unapologetically bold “Bee’s Knees.” Founded by self-taught designer Rainy Womack, TELL THE TRUTH has dressed star names such as Jay Shetty, Avril Lavigne, Dove Cameron, Jorge Masvidal with features in Vogue, GQ, and Netflix’s Selling Sunset. The cinematic bunker presentation underlined the brand’s philosophy: fashion without compromise – built by an outsider to disrupt.
With his collection “DDR. The Stolen Children”, Kilian Kerner brought a long-suppressed chapter of German history to Berlin’s grandest stage – the Uber Arena, raising awareness about the inhuman practices of totalitarian regime separating children from parents and families some of whom are still searching for the siblings and kids. For the sixth season in a row, he presented as part of COLLECTIVEFOUR alongside Danny Reinke and Marcel Ostertag, this time merging emotional storytelling with high-impact glamour. His clear-cut silhouettes reinterpreted the spirit of the 80s with wide shoulders, shimmering gold looks, and transparent pieces that felt both sensual and strong. Belted trouser suits, embroidered floral motifs and voluminous coats added poetic softness to the outfits. Altogether, Kerner delivered a collection that was not only aesthetically commanding but also deeply rooted in collective memory, proving his unique ability to fuse fashion with cultural reflection on Berlin’s biggest runway.
Danny Reinke continues to define his unique vision of bespoke elegance with “The Hunt,” his new collection that revives the poetic spirit of European miniatures and myths. Known for merging traditional artisanal techniques with a clear, modern aesthetic, Reinke crafts designs that cultivate personal style and refined body awareness. This season, delicate embroidery and intricate fabric treatments referenced the romance and craftsmanship of European costume history, infusing the runway with timeless storytelling.
His signature approach seamlessly blends couture-level detail with contemporary silhouettes, creating looks that feel both fresh and anchored in cultural tradition. Sustainability remains central, as Reinke integrates eco-friendly materials and practices at every stage of his production process. The collection’s refined textures and mythical motifs offered a welcome reminder that in today’s fast-paced lifestyle romance and poetry never go out of style. Having showcased his work in Berlin, Paris, and Vancouver, Reinke continues to prove that innovative design and responsible fashion are not mutually exclusive. “The Hunt” felt like a quiet yet powerful statement: fashion can remain timeless while daring to dream.
Marcel Ostertag’s new collection “Paradise” transported Berlin Fashion Week guests into a lush, floral reverie, true to the designer’s signature fusion of tradition and modernity. Drawing inspiration from blooming gardens, Ostertag embroidered and printed delicate motifs of flowers, plants, and leaves across his designs, weaving a rich tapestry of nature onto luxurious fabrics. Romantic pastel hues, bold reds and deep blacks, created a dynamic palette that balanced softness with confident sensuality. Ruffles cascaded down sleeves, trousers, and dresses, adding theatrical movement and romantic volume. Intricate lace looks accentuated the body’s natural lines, while ornamental patterns evoked a sense of elegance.
Touches of shiny leather brought an unexpected edge to the collection, reinforcing Ostertag’s ability to balance classic femininity with Berlin’s urban cool. The silhouettes ranged from sweeping long dresses to body-fitted pieces and daring mini skirts, ensuring each look flattered the diverse forms it adorned. True to his ethos, every garment reflected high-quality craftsmanship and sustainable production – values Marcel Ostertag has upheld since founding his brand in 2006.
MAXIMILIAN GEDRA’s collection presented in an open studio met at best the spirit of Berlin with its bizarre attitude and references to nature that dominates the raw urban landscapes. Gedra’s looks are a fearless confrontation with outworn gender norms transcending binaries. His open studio presentation revealed outfits inspired by spiky natural formations such as stalactites and cosmic stars, channeling their sharp, alien beauty into sculptural garments. Among them was a dramatic piece recently worn by Lady Gaga, cementing Gedra’s place among avant-garde innovators. Signature designs included full-body overalls and structured coats crafted in grey as well as shiny black leather. Metallic silver dresses with surfaces polished to an almost mirror-like gleam stole the show. Silhouettes were extreme and sculptural, extending the body into exaggerated, otherworldly shapes reminiscent of alien warriors or insect queens.
Outfits in stark black and white were styled to evoke fantastic monsters, both menacing and mesmerizing, with their spiky extensions and sharply contoured lines. Edgy, polished finishes created a sense of futuristic armour, while bizarre organic shapes recalled predatory plants and poisonous flowers. Buttons, pins, and needle-like metallic elements protruded from garments, forming thorn-like textures intended to protect the wearer or ward off danger. This collection was not merely fashion but a powerful manifesto, creating extreme classics that fused the past, present, and future into a single, provocative vision.
By Lily Fürstenow
