As the Georgian lowlands heat up this summer, one sure respite is simply this: To ascend into the mountains, where it can be much cooler. Fortunately, the whole country offers many destinations in all directions, plenty of choices near and far, no matter your starting point. For example:
From Tbilisi, one direction is the road ending at Mt Kazbegi, also known as Stepantsminda, with Gudauri on the way. The mountain and villages offer spectacular views, ancient churches, hikes, and plenty of places to stay. You can even arrange to be guided to the top of Kazbegi, a stiff long hike, but far from actual ropes-and-pitons mountaineering.
Another choice from Tbilisi is Tusheti, closed through winter but now its main road reopening. This road is not for novice drivers, best for 4x4s and experienced drivers; but the many vast views and gorgeous slate-stone villages with their towers are worth it.
Khevsureti too starts from Tbilisi, and ends at Shatili, a must-see stone village which is virtually all one building. Not far from it are other villages and towers; and several “villages of the dead” also. Into these collections of low, half-underground stone houses were sent those suspected long ago of having fatal communicable diseases, such as possibly the Plague in the Middle Ages. These unfortunate souls were given food at their windows, but their fate was to die where they were. Their bones still litter the house floors, clearly visible.
Racha is also reachable from Tbilisi in a few hours’ drive; and here as well you will find more unique heights and villages, right up to the border with “South Ossetia.” The main towns are Ambrolauri, famous for its Khanchkara semi-sweet red wine; and Oni, with a surviving synagogue and wonderful local museum. From these two bases there are many drives and hikes possible higher still, such as to Mravaldzali, 2000m up.
Bakuriani is yet another high destination only a few hours west from Tbilisi. While, like Gudauri, it is primarily known as a winter resort area, its altitude offers more coolness. The same for Borjomi National Park, before Bakuriani, on the same road.
Moving west, from Kutaisi north, you get into Lower Svaneti, less busy than Upper, with its capital of Lentekhi and another great little local museum. The road, now being renovated at its top but still 4×4-navigable, continues up to 2800m height then down a bit all the way to Ushguli, highest village of both Georgia and Europe at 2200m.
Batumi on the Black Sea coast is the starting point to go up into the rest of its province, Adjara, with another different set of views, villages and customs (more Muslim than most of the rest of the country). Keda, Shuakhevi, the road to Akhaltsikhe and much more.
From Zugdidi you are no more than a three-hour drive from Mestia, capital town of Upper Svaneti. But along the way and past Mestia are many villages worth a hike, drive or stop, near or farther from the main road. Nakra, Dizi, Pari, Etseri, Becho, Tskhumari, Latali, Lenjeri, Mulakhi, Ipari, Kala, all the way up to Ushguli and then down the other side if you wish. Trails, guides and variations abound; as well as about 200 Svan towers from a millennium ago, glaciers, homesteads or hotels, rustic to posh, night life or quiet as you prefer.
Treks on horse or by foot; self-drive or with a driver; camping, guest houses or hotels; single or in groups. Georgia’s multicolored highlands offer the perfect escape from summer swelters into glacial cool.
Blog by Tony Hanmer
Tony Hanmer has lived in Georgia since 1999, in Svaneti since 2007, and been a weekly writer and photographer for GT since early 2011. He runs the “Svaneti Renaissance” Facebook group, now with over 2000 members, at www.facebook.com/groups/SvanetiRenaissance/
He and his wife also run their own guest house in Etseri: www.facebook.com/hanmer.house.svaneti
